Hi Guys! It is good time to tell visitors and Adobe Flash learners a great tip of Adobe Flash. Most of the time you have seen a image and text morphing in movies, serials and advertisements. Here we will discuss about it and tell you how can you create it by yourself. So get start from here:-
Start a new movie [CTRL+N]. Modify the size of your movie (Modify>Movie) to 150x150 pixels.
Enter any text on your main movie by clicking on the Text Tool Button . I used a Times New Roman font on this example and font size = 150. Use your mouse or your keyboard arrow to center the text.
While the text is highlighted, break it apart by pressing [CTRL+B] or (Modify>Break Apart)
Right-click your mouse on Frame 20 and insert a Blank Keyframe. Your animation will start from Frame 1 and will end at Frame 20.
Enter any text at Frame 20 by using the Text Tool Button . Break apart the new text by pressing [CTRL+B]
Double-click your mouse at Frame 1 to activate the Frame Properties window. Follow the same settings as shown below. Your timeline should appear like the one shown on the left.
For more complex shape changes, Macromedia Flash has a Shape Hint where you can mark starting and ending points. To do this, click on Frame 1 then press [CTRL+H] to add a shape hint and move the shape hint (see example) to the point you want to mark.
Go to the last keyframe (Frame 20) and move the shape hint that corresponds to the first point you have marked.
Go to Frame 1 and add another shape hint [CTRL+H] as shown at the left image. Go the last frame and move the shape hint "b" as shown below.
Preview your animation by pressing [Enter] and start noticing the difference :)
THIS IS A SIMPLE WALK-THROUGH for producing drop shadows by hand. In some cases you'll want to know and understand this process because you'll need a shadow that does not "drop" from the entire object, or one that you can manipulate as a separate object rather than part of the layer as in the Drop-Shadow layer effect.
This is an object, rastered on its own layer.
The first thing we'll do is duplicate that object to another new layer. * Drag the layer to the "New Layer" icon at the bottom of the layers palette, or, * Use the "Float" command: Command/J, or Control/J for Windows.
Next: Select the layer original object layer * Command/click the layer thumbnail (Control/Click for Windows)
Now your object is selected on the bottom layer. Tap the letter D to change colors to default Tap Option/Delete (Alt/Delete for Windows) to fill the object (Racing ants, the dotted line around the object signifies it is selected)
In this capture, you'll see the object is now filled with the foreground color (Black) even though you can't see it because it's behind (or beneath) the White object on the next layer.
Tap Command/D (Control/D) to drop any selections Choose: Filter > Blur > Gaussian Blur and in the resulting dialog box, set the amount of blur to result in the desired amount of shadow.
Here, we've created the blur than selected the Move tool (Tap V) to "nudge" the shadow to its new location. (In this example, we went 12 pixels right, and 12 pixels down. Your own project may be different. )
NOTE You've completed the drop shadow just as the Layer Effects would have. We've actually been doing this for years-- even long before Photoshop had layers!
However, you now own the shadow as a separate object and can act upon it as you wish. For instance, perhaps the shadow needs to run across multiple surfaces...
Photoshop Trick - Change Image in Second through Photoshop
Tuesday, March 25, 2008
Sometime each and everyone want to change or modify image for his work or fun. Here, I collect some amazing point to help those guys which are not familiar to Photoshop, but want to modify an image. Check out these points taken from http://www.photoaxe.com and also check video given below taken from YouTube.
Step 1: Cropping and Rotating This corrects the composition. Concentrate on the subject by “getting” it closer and take some rules under consideration. In my opinion rotating is rarely used if you keep the camera in the right position. However, sometimes my camera fails to rotate the vertical images after shooting so I have to do it manually. Step 2: Eliminating Objects Some undesired little objects that could not be avoided during shooting can be erased by using clone and healing tools in Photoshop. The classic situation is represented by electricity and phone wires. Step 3: Lighten the shadows This will reveal details. To do so, in Photoshop you will need a different layer, or, in newer Lightroom version, there is a function that will do so for you. Picasa comes with “Fill Light” feature. If you got a Nikon camera, then you probably also have the Capture NX software which also helps improve the already in-camera D-Lighting. Step 4: Curves This will mainly adjust the contrast and brightness. The “S” shape is good for improvements; details with example here. Step 5: Levels Levels and Curves most likely go hand-in-hand, sometimes just one of them is enough. However, levels also affect color tones and therefore very useful in many situations. Step 6: Hue/Saturation Most pictures won’t need this. Note that aesthetic pictures are those with natural colors, so don’t just pull the saturation over the limits. I rather recommend color control via Selective Color. Step 7: Black and White Conversion This is definitely optionally; some details here. Usually, the pictures that look good in BW are classic portraits, pictures of old stuff, pictures that concentrate more on a powerful concept and shapes rather than colorful nature, but I really think there are no rules for this. Step 8: Sharpness Sharper pictures usually look better than very smooth ones, revealing more details of the shapes forms. For this I usually use “unsharp mask” in Photoshop, and, if the picture is way too soft, overall sharpness. Step 9: Noise Reduction Not just after shooting at high ISO, but also after the sharpness adjustment, the picture will likely become noisy. NeatImage is the freeware software I recommend for this job. Some people just simply like grainy pictures, but then I recommend adding some uniform grain not the sharpness noise which is not uniform. Step 10: Blurring the Background Compact digital cameras, even if they do have manual settings or shutter priority, still don’t handle DOF very good. In this case you can pop up the main subject by blurring the background. You can just blur just a few areas with the brush, or, create a different layer to handle things more accurate around the subject. However, it’s not (and never will be) the same thing as real DOF from dSLR’s. Step 11: Adding a Border Usually a simple one (white or black) is the best choice, but for details about this check part1 and part2 of the borders tutorial. Step 12: Adding a Signature It’s not a must, but picture fraud over the internet is very high our days, so why not having your name on your work? Step 13: Resizing Unless you were preparing a picture for printing, smaller images are better for the web because they load faster. I recommend doing this as a last step, otherwise too many details (pixels) will be lost. More than that, try these settings at the resizing in Photoshop: to maintain original sharpness when scaling down, click on Resample Image and choose Bicubic and 70% JPEG quality.
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